This is probably the most asked question that I get and the answer is there really is no answer. I see people all of the time on Facebook parroting the $3000-$3500 number and that is a fallacy. I will post a parts list below from a typical build, using 2021 numbers. In no way does it show what any engine will cost but might be a good gauge for anyone looking. You can look at it and decide whether or not you want/need certain things.
The one biggest determining factor is the valve train. For a bone stock rebuild you can use the S&S stock type lifters with a stock or stock type camshaft. If you want anything that resembles more than stock horsepower those lifters will just not last. Jim’s lifters are just junk and fail long before they should. The only answer is to convert the engine to Evolution style valvetrain because no one makes lifters for a Shovelhead anymore that are any good. S&S has a kit that includes lifters and lifter blocks along with pushrods. You will also need an Evolution camshaft and if you have an early motor you will need the late gears for the cam case. If you want to lose the oil feed lines and oil the top end through the pushrods like an Evolution motor than you will need the S&S Rocker Arms as well. This all costs about two grand and adds a large chunk to the build cost…BUT…along with some forged pistons you will basically have an Evolution motor internally and this can easily last 100,000 miles if cared for well. The rest of the build is dependent on what is needed or wanted. Do you want the cylinders painted? Do you want the Rocker Boxes chromed…etc. As you can see below it is easy to spend as much as $6000 in parts to rebuild one of these! For a more complete list and even discussion about your particular motor please join the forum.
Engine Parts:
KB 926 Pistons 250
Spark Plugs 10
Flywheel washers 30
Rod rollers 80
Rod races 75
Crank pin 136
Pinion shaft 157
Left case bearing 65
Spacer/seal 43
Cam bearing 12
Case hardware 56
Pinion bearing 45
Oil pump kit 395
Late Pinion Kit 158
Breather 120
Ultima Ignition 150
S&S Rocker Boxes 1125
Cam Cover 170
Cam Cover Screws 36
Points Cover 27
Gasket Kit 147
Valves 100
Guides 50
Spring Kit 100
Head Bolts 53
Mackie .580 Cam 250
S&S Roller Rocker Arms 558
Mikuni/Adapter/Air Cleaner 614
S&S Evo Valvetrain 918
Total Parts $5993
This is a common question as well. It may as well be “how blue is the sky?” because it COMPLETELY depends on what the customer wants. Some bikes can be as low as teens if the guy wants a bare bones Bobber or Chopper with some used Harley parts like an engine and transmission. If the guy wants a full blown custom which would include many one off, hand made parts it can easily get to $100,000! Most of the custom builds that we did in the 90’s when it was going crazy were in the 30-40 thousand range. These were Evolution-Softail based bikes all with six speed transmissions and big inch motors. If you want a Shovelhead based bike and starting from scratch be prepared to have a hefty labor bill because with these bike literally nothing fits and there will be a hundred hours or more just massaging parts to go where they should. A $50,000 bill is not unreachable. Can it be done for $25,000? Sure, if you start with a bike that is running.
Going through an old four speed transmission is pretty straight forward. Pretty much all of them are completely worn out. So a whole gearset is usually in order along with a gasket and seal kit, shifter dogs and shifter forks. Once in a while I come across one that a couple of the gears are ok but not often. Andrews is really the only answer. This is a “you get what you pay for” situation. I can not and never will recommend a Chinese gearset. They are just terrible but if you do opt to use one PLEASE at least use a set of Andrews shifter dogs. I can literally guarantee the Cheap ones will break. Below is a typical parts list for a four speed rebuild. Remember that cleaning and any machine work like sizing the case race also needs to be included. As you can see it is easy to spend two grand on parts for a four speed!
Transmission:
Mainshaft 218
MDG bushing 34
MDG spacer 32
Big bearing 37
Roller set 46
Fork rollers 17
Lock/clip kit 23
Rebuild/gasket/seal kit 316
Clutches (2) 92
Clutch Arm 57
Forks (2) 30
Case race 81
Sprocket 35
Nut kit 13
Hardware kit 43
Speedo Drive 35
Andrews Gear set 825
Total Transmission $1924
This is a common question as well. It may as well be “how blue is the sky?” because it COMPLETELY depends on what the customer wants. Some bikes can be as low as teens if the guy wants a bare bones Bobber or Chopper with some used Harley parts like an engine and transmission. If the guy wants a full blown custom which would include many one off, hand made parts it can easily get to $100,000! Most of the custom builds that we did in the 90’s when it was going crazy were in the 30-40 thousand range. These were Evolution-Softail based bikes all with six speed transmissions and big inch motors. If you want a Shovelhead based bike and starting from scratch be prepared to have a hefty labor bill because with these bike literally nothing fits and there will be a hundred hours or more just massaging parts to go where they should. A $50,000 bill is not unreachable. Can it be done for $25,000? Sure, if you start with a bike that is running.
The first thing is “where will you be storing it?” If you are storing it in a heated place there is not much you really have to do. In fact, there is not a lot that you really have to do anywhere. Most of it is a preference. The main things are fuel and battery. Draining the carburetor’s floatbowl will help keep any varnish from forming in there which can be a mess later on. Draining the gas tank is not really necessary. I usually fill it up to keep it from rusting. Adding any Storage chemicals is not really necessary. A fresh load of fuel should be just fine a few months later. That stuff makes the engine run like crap anyway I have found, in the spring when you fire the bike up.
If you have a lead acid battery just take it out and bring it inside. If it is a heated garage or you have a Lithium battery just disconnect the negative terminal and you are fine. With a lead acid battery you can connect a trickle charger overnight once a month but I never trusted those things so I will never leave one connected all winter. It is just not needed and when your battery boils over or explodes in your basement and you find it a month later you will be really sad!
A fresh oil change is always good to do before you let the bike sit. Run it and get it nice and hot then drop the oil and clean the tank out. Replace the oil and filter and run the engine to flush the fresh oil throughout.